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Twenty km to the west of Viñales and at the north- west of Sierra Quemado in the municipality of Minas de Matahambre there is an other wall for the practice of climbing in Cuba.

When I explored the sector in march of this year I knew that I had to set a few routes in this red and attractive stone. As soon as I had the new drill in my hands I went to bolt the line that let me taciturn when I first saw it, - Fin del dolor- (End of the pain) a futuristic project for us the Cubans but not unrealizable. In 15 meters “you have to give all what you have”, it begins with an almost horizontal roof, cut perfectly , with a few tiny stalactites and its “super strong” first two moves. After that you have to make a radical transition and face the overhang, you have to cross this 90 grades angle to get into small crimps pinches and a lot of pain.

It doesn’t have risky moves or sharp holds and its open for those who want to find karma and get to the next level. Nothing, I just think it is hard right from the start to the top, that’s why I am super motivated to give it my first try to what might be the first 8c in Cuba. I spent 3 long ours and 10 bolts to open the route from the base to the top the last August 8 and I haven’t give it the first try yet so I’m really hungry to taste its power. But I decided that keep bolting was the best thing to do and now we already have 6 new lines bolted.

The easiest route in the wall it’s a 6c, it is in a part of the wall that we thought was going to be simple, but seems that everything is going to be hard. This wall totally most be about 80 meters wide, and in the left side it is about 30 meters high – I cant say that its vertical – because it has a lot of angles and although it seems vertical in some points there is some overhang. It has an intense yellow and orange color. In the central part, where the first routes were bolted the way the rock lucks like totally changes. There is an almost horizontal roof of 6 meters long and then a perfect vertical section which is fallowed but the most attractive section of the wall, this portion of the wall is about 20 meters wide and yellow. At the right side of the wall there is a 10 meters high roof with some hollows, stalactites and cracks, really amazing all the way to the top. Here the color is more white and grey but still really attractive.

We have already planed to do some kind of small rock trip in the new sector from 3 to 6 of December. So this way we are officially inviting to those who would like to stay camped for 3 days at the base of the wall, trying what you want and welcoming the climbing season in Cuba, with the arrived of first cold fronts. It also would be a good training for the National rock climbing competition in Viñales 2011 from January 13 to16. But you can visit the new wall so you can have an idea about how strong you are and get an idea about what this rock have to offer.

Yarobys Garcia Martinez