Petzl Team in Cuba
Fri 15 Apr 2011 Yarobis Garcias 4 Comments
I knew the Petzl Team Group that visited Cuba in December 2010, in the Petzl Rock Trip held in Mexico in Taxo and Gilotepec. They had in mind to make a movie opening of extreme routes on the island. And Armando Menocal had told me that they needed to contact as I would at this Feast of the rock would have time to plan a strategy.
I returned to Cuba a week before them and as (Michael Fusel, Enso Odo, Meliza Gufa, Nina Caprez, Cedric, Julian ) arrived on the island, we went out to explore the area by bike to chose the best scenario for their company. I guided to the Explosión de Poder in the sector Estrado, where two years ago another member of Petzl Said Belhai had given him a warm peguesitos and failed to take the first step in boulder that gives the full degree of way.
We passed Cuba Libre and finally got to the wall Hasta siempre Armando, south of Sierra San Vicente to a new and unique roof collapsed, we named El Techo del Mundo, to the left of the giant wall where no sun ever falls neither rain, despite being oriented to the east. Definitely this was the place to equip what would occupy the next few weeks to alien men of the rock. To return a heavy downpour muddy the path to point us out to tow the bicycle.
The first sector climbed Cueva Larga, and routes as Meiby 7a, Amigos Hasta el Tope 7c, Don Cójate de la Mancha 8a, were one pass for Petzl view. In the afternoon Cueva Cabeza la Vaca and his eighth felt the pressure of the first ends in the island chain any first time you see a promotion to view The One Inch Ponch at the hands of Michael Fuselier in his first route in the sector. Melissa, Nina tested with out enchain but not to Vista. Enso Odo bound the second attempt at The Colony. Projects such as routs in Echando Candela Looking now Installment 8a and Morirse a Plazos 8a + 6th grades for these lizards of the stone. Striking was also when tested what remained after the route to equip Birosis.
Estrato with Explosion de Poder (Project), equipped by Alberto Javier Leiva and me in 2007, attracted the attention of professionals and a few full days dedicated to chain that routes, with their respective videos, photos and interviews. I returned to give a hit to my big project this year, but without getting the block step 8a, the crux of the route in the second bolts. What follows is pure 7c resistance with relatively good grips but with 45 degrees of collapse and 15 meters long. This line becomes the second hardest route of the island.
El Techo del Mundo with 7 routes, equipped 11 and December 12, 2010, previously selected for the opening of the first extreme routes of the Petzl. It is located south of Sierra San Vicente and the left sector Alimentando Mosquitos on the Por Siempre Armando. You can take a taxi from Viñales by the road leading to the municipality of Palma about 8 km (the same road to the Costanera sector), then left the road about 3km Valle Ancon and stop right in front of home which is south of the Great Wall orange. This house has large trees in front and just to the right of the road down the road about 1 km to the base of a wall that is not equipped yet. The road runs just west and goes through the forest, you must cross twice for a small stream but when you reach the valley you can see the roof with a precise cut just as you cross the gateway to the land of the peasants. The stream enters a cave and you turn right.
From left to right:
Dame Otro Hueco - 8a. García Martínez Yarobys openness. Start the track when you enter the sector in the second of the terraces that form below the extra lead and the right of a stalactite hanging at the end of the wall. Block like the rest, as its name indicates gaps in a roof to mono-vi-fingers and toes.
Kirikiki – 7a . Cedrik openness. In the third terrace to the left of a line of frills and stalactites, which ends on the left on a large tufa. The most easiest to warm, with a step in the middle of the road. Independent Meeting.
La Puta del Barrio (project). Creators Yarobys García Martínez and Enso Odo. The first track that opened in the sector. Climb to the right of the line of frills and stalactites. At the end is the hardest part of the route. Separate meeting.
Jesui qú un connrd (Soy un Cabrón)- 8c. Creator Cedrik. A line in some obvious gaps, with a small tuff in the middle to rest a little. Technical and complex from start to finish, recessed fingers and twisting movements. Shares the same meeting of La Puta del Barrio.
Two más Dos – 7c+/8a. Melissa and Nina openness. To the right of the fissure and a stalactite must begin the climb. It has a hard step in the middle of the road and at the end is on the left to the same meeting of the La Puta del Barrio.
Bouse – 7c . Nina openness. Is a variant of Two mas Dos on the right, after the 6th bolts with a separate meeting.
Alto Cedro – 8c . Michael Fuselier openness. It is located on the fourth terrace, at the end and turn right. Last line in this mega roof, perfect cut. Is a diagonal crack on the right with a slump of about 45 degrees. You do not have to embed, but has ridges on the edges of the crack. Is the most impressive of all the open in this magical extra lead. Continuity, endurance, technique, power is the key to reach the top of El Techo del Mundo.
It took several days of repetitive hit by each of the openings to these magical numbers. But each of them took his deserved award. Impressed by the versatility of the young Enso Odo with the two 8c of the wall . The first chain the Alto Cedro and Jesui qú un connrd was his openness. With these promotions can afford to have been the first 8c of Cuba.
But this does not stop there, continuing Birosis 7b reaching to half the roof of the Cow Head Cave. 35 meters unusually extra-leaded and resistance never seen by us. The low friction heat and attempted to project chaining 8c / 9a of Viñales, Cuba. To tell Enso "is the most demanding and at the same time the most motivated him to beat up", but unfortunately did not chaining.
To Santiago de Cuba were looking for more stone with which to satisfy their being explorer. Siboney Blocks east of the city felt the pressure of his fingers, despite the intense heat that always does in this eastern region of Cuba. This ends his pilgrimage to the largest of the French Antilles Petzl.
Sending...



4 Comments
Ufffffff
Estan bravos los muchachos, segun cuentas escalaron The One Inch Ponch a vista... !!!Buen trabajo!!!
Albe, ese a vista y el de cueva larga, Pero por si fuera poco nuestro proyecto Explosión de Poder le dieron el primer paso de 8a de bloque, lo otro es pura resistencia.
Para cuando llegues tal ves comienzo a escalar, no se si sabes que estoy lesionado otra vez.
Te veo en Cuba.....yaro....
y done está ubicado este Sector....
Quisiera hacer una pregunta, cuantas vias supeiror a 8a existen en Viñales?
;) mas que contento por lo que estan viviendo ,,orguyo por ustedes ,,meresen eso y mas ,,pronto estare por aya
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