Cimarrones, the highest route in Cuba
Tue 22 Mar 2011 Yarobis Garcias 6 Comments
Equipped by Anibal Fernandez, Ben Iceman and Yarobys Garcias, open from 27 January to 3 February 2011, 6c, 150m. Anibal says it was one projects of Luebben Cray when he visited the island on their journey, but It can't consummated by his tragic accident.
In one of the emails I wrote to Anibal I told about my project and he said that together with other Canadian, we will equip. Way of adventure, nothing compared to other sports routs in the valley, has some alpine, but the view is what takes all the attractions, you can see the valley Mogote in its entirety, including the Mural of Prehistory and the entire Valley Palmarito. You start on the right of the wall between the trees. Needed for the 70m rope climb, because the third rappel along the cave is 70m Che Guevara, Cuba's longest.
P1: 9m, 3 +. Equipped by Anibal Fernandez. Using trees as safe tape ring up a meeting with three bolts on the right shelf.
P2: 35m, 6b +, 15 bolts. Equipped by Anibal Fernandez. It is an escalation plate with good edges. We suggest long climb with some tapes to prevent scratches.
P3: The route was originally opened to in the right among the cactus, in the base of Che Guevara cave rings using tape and a couple of bolts, but after Ben Iceman equipped variant left more attractive and recommended, 27m, 11 bolts , 6b. The reunion ends to the left of the cave, which is due to rappel to the base of the sector. There are two more bolts that will serve as handrails to arrive safely within the cavity. You can leave a string in the cave and follow with a single.
P4: 28m, 6b, 12 bolts. Equiped by Yarobys Garcias. The output is to the right of the cave from another station. It deviates slightly to the right to reach the next cave that looks like two large eyes, which is divided by blocks, way to take. Then another plate and reach the second cave and follow this line to the left until the third cave or rock shelter to the left of this length. Have a meeting to give safety inside the cave in left side. For rappelling has another outside the cave on the left side of the station safe. Use a rope.
P5: 25m. 6b, 10 bolts. Anibal Fernandez. You must use the column to the right of the cave to make sure in the next length. Got something to collapse but easy to get to a ledge at the bottom of a fissure perfect.
P6: 26m, 6c, 11 bolts. Started by Ben Iceman. The last long and definitely the best. Perfect rock, unique texture and finish a fissure fingers recessed base in his first 7m. From this long view is breathtaking, unique and highest of all the Viñales Valley. On the right you can continue to equip more roads, that all would come out hard, with few secondary formations . You can sleep on the ledge of the latter over to the right, in a large space for more than 5 tents. The meeting has three bolts and rappelling is done without problems until the base of the cave below, separating you from just a meter from the wall, you can take with ease.
Sending...

6 Comments
Excelente pared...
Yaro tenemos que organizar un viaje a quedarnos en Cueva Guevara una noche
Nos cost'o bastante trabajo a Ben, Anibal y a mi abrirla, pero deben hacerla. Ya la han escaldo dos grupos y quedaron locos, no pensaban que se podia ir tan alto en el valle.
Aunque es 6c, no es como estan acostumbrados en vias de un largo, miren bien la informacion que les damos para que no tengan errore.
Nos vemos...yaro
La ruta me dejo satisfecho. Ademas, el "team" internacional funciono bien. A pesar del trabajo duro, sobretodo de limpieza, no hubo contratiempos y la linea se dio a pedir de boca. El grado salio mas facil de lo que pensabamos. pero sin embargo la ruta tienes varios pasos y secciones delicadas. ademas de tramos expuestos (no mal equipados). El largo final equipado por Ben y que yo solo probe en top-rope, es tecnico con fisura de dedos y un paso de bloque para llegar a la R....y mucho patioooooo!!!! La vista mas salvaje del Valle.
Hace falta que la escalen para que se limpie un pelin mas!
Espero les guste!
de todo corazon
Anibal
Eso es sierto a pedir de boca y mucho trabajo pero satifechos.
Oolo te pido Anibal y Ben que me envien más fotos para publicarlas en la galería de imagenes, todas son de ustedes y es bueno varidad.
yaro
podriamos ir y escalarla ademas de quedarnos esa noche en la cueva, y hacer fiesta, que la gente del palenque deje la pista vacia y nos pidan una cuerda pa subir acompartir
saludos alberto
Salvaje.... de seguro tendremos tremendo publico
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